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Monday, November 30

EOTD Gray: Epiphany

Valisin toonid umbropsu - kohutav kuid kuigi mul on nii palju erinevaid lauvärvitoone, tundub mulle ikka, et pole midagi laugudele panna - et kõik toonid juba ära proovitud ja kombinatsioonid läbi mängitud. Sellisel juhul on vaja vaid silmad sulgeda ja posust mõned niisama välja võtta - võib väga headele kombinatsioonidele juhtuda.


Archetype' toonidest Epiphany üle lau, Dirty Blonde kulmuluust silmavaoni ning Oceans of the Night niiskelt lainerina. Silmavaos on The Conservatorie Dark Coco. Silmade all EDM'i Pearl Sunlight ja meigipõhjana EDM'i Intensive Fair concealer.
Lauvärvipõhi on Manhattani oma ning ripsmetušš Lumene Blueberry. Ripsmed seekord ei õnnestunud - aevastus tuli enne peale.

Archetype's Epiphany all over lid,
Archetype's Dirty Blonde from crease to browbone,
The Conservatorie's Brown Coco in the crease and
Archetype's Oceans of the Night wet as liner.
EDM's Pearl Sunlight under the eyes
EDM's Intensive Fair concealer as foundation

Looks nice. Used the new EDM dome blending blush to apply the crease color - worked quite fine. Picture taken on a cloudy day, by the window some 10 minutes after applying.


Archetype has lots of different muted tones, many grays to choose from. Epiphany is dark silver gray with medium sheen that has tiny sparks of all colors in it. Dirty Blonde is orangish muted beige tone with golden sheen and Oceans of the Night is dark bluish black with tiny multicolored sparkles. Conservatorie's Brown Coco is simple matte dark brown.

Monday, November 23

Uued EDMi pintslid kohal / The new EDM brushes arrived


Saabusid, toonide hajutaja (blender) ning silmapliiatsijoone hajutaja (smudger) tunduvad mykke bro samas kui silmakabuki jr on pettumustvalmistav - ta on nimelt väga lühikese varrega. Sobib hästi mõnda reisikomplekti. Pintslid on oma tuntud pehmuses ja hetkel katsutuna ei ajanud neist ükski ka karva.


Kuna silmakabuki ise ka eriti hästi silmameigi tegemiseks ei kõlba (liiga suur) ja selle roll on pigem silmade alla valguspuudri kandmine ning kontuurimine, siis ka juunior sobib rohkem nt punnide peitmiseks ja peitepuudri pealekandmiseks. Hajutamispintslil tunduvad olema liiga pikad karvad ja vähe jäikust, selle kasutusvõimalusi peab veidi õppima. (Hilisem lisanuds: see pintsel on saast, õppiminegi ei aidanud.)

Tellimusega kaasa tulnud tasuta lauvärv Volcano Blossom on täissaast: musta raudoksiidi on segatud veidi pruuni ning lisatud kuldset sädelust. Kui seda tooni hajutada või hõõruda, kaob kuldne läige ära ja nahale jääb tugev määrdunud mustjaspruun laik. Kasutatav ainult krundiga (silmameigi aluskreemiga) ja siis soovitan ka niisket pealekandmist. Laineriks sobilik.


New EDM brushes - smudger seems promising, the blender may be a little too weak-haired (too bendy) and the eye kabuki jr has a very short handle (eye kabuki jr seems like the perfect thing to conceal pimples with). The freebie Volcano Blossom seems to be simple black iron oxide with some Verdigris Gold mixed into it - basically its dirty looking black-brown color with goldengreen sparks - do not recommend to buy. Good as an eyeliner, I presume. Totally unblendable though, all the golden sparks disappear.

Wednesday, November 18

Üle lahe blogija: Fashioned in Finland

Sattusin põhjanaabri peale, kes ka palju MMUst kirjutab - EOTD'd, swatchid jne.
Heres a link to a blog which also covers lots of MMU stuff - EOTD's, swatches - the works.

Fashioned in Finland

She covers Sassy Minerals, Aromaleigh, The She Space, Meow, Pure Luxe, Alima, Bare Minerals, Lumiere, EDM, Beautiful Girl Minerals, Morgana Minerals, The Mineralista and Orglamix Minerals (I have not even heard of those last four...), Sigma (brushes) etc.

Monday, November 16

Upcoming EDM haul





Gathered up some pals and ordered some brushes from EDM. Somehow I always seem to get rid of my spare LHK's cause one or another friend needs it more then I do. And EDM has released other brushes that have a good potential - hopefully - like the eye smudge brush and dome blending eye brush. We also chose some eye kabuki juniors - looking forward to the parcel dropping by any day now.

There have been tales of the new EDM brushes shedding, though.. hopefully we are lucky and get the good batch.

Friday, November 13

EOTD: Purple-Green

Tundub, et rohelillad kooslused on kujunemas mu lemmikuteks.
The purple-green combination is becoming one of my favorites. Gold goes well with it too.

Helerohelise ja lilla kooslus vajab veidike harjumist: Grape on kaunis intensiivne, kui paksult panna ning võib sellisel juhul paista nagu paras pirakas sinikas.

Kasutatud värvid:
TKB Grape välisnurkades ja silmavaos, Breath of Spring sisenurkades ja laul. Samuti kasutasin seda leevendamaks Grape liigset lillasust ning hajutasin väljapoole. Lainerina Conservatorie 18 K Gold. Silmade all EDM'i Pearl Sunlight ning meigipõhjana Intensive Fair concealer pooleks Sandy Fair'iga. Põsepunaks Conservatorie Twinkling pink, väikese sädelusega heleroosa.

Ahjaa - kosmeetik värvis kulme. Mu meelest jäi kaunis jube kuid loodetavasti kulub värv nädalavahetusega ära.


Please excuse the eyebrows - the beautician got carried away. Much too dark.

Wednesday, November 11

Metallilised nanoosakesed (Metallic nanoparticles)

EPLis on täna huvitav artikkel "Metallilised nanoosakesed ei ole elusolenditele ohutud". KBFI teadurid uurisid TiO2, ZnO ning CuO (vaskoksiid, mineraalmeigis ei kasutata) ohtlikkust pisiorganismidele (bakterid, kirpvähilised ja vesikirbud). Siin on link ka KBFI kodulehel üllitatud vastavasisulisele pdf-failile.
Kokkuvõte: äärmiselt mürgised on nanotsinkoksiid ja nanohõbe, titaandioksiid pisiloomadele mürgiseks ei osutunud.

Teadusuuringud näitasid, et kirpvähilistele Daphnia magna ja Thamnocephalus platyurus, bakteritele Vibrio fischeri ja pärmidele Saccharomyces cerevisiae ei olnud nano- ega ka tavasuuruses TiO2 suspensioonid toksilised isegi kontsentratsioonis 20 g/l. ZnO- (nano)osakesed olid aga TiO2-osakestest tunduvalt toksilisemad, kusjuures nano- ja tavasuuruses osakeste toksilisus oli ühesugune*. Samasugused ZnO toksilisuse kohta käivad tulemused saadi vetikatega Pseudokirchneriella subcapitata ja osakestest toituvate algloomadega Tetrahymena thermophila. Kõikidele testorganismidele oli nanosuuruses CuO kuni kuuskümmend korda toksilisem kui CuO tavasuuruses osakesed
* vahe selles, et tavaosakesed ei läbista nahka ja ei satu puudrist me vereringesse.

See uudis puudutab kosmeetikatarbijaid päris otseselt, sest nanovormis ZnO ning TiO2 on paljude päikesekaitsekreemide koostises ning nanohõbedaosakesed on nt nendes poppides bakteritsiidsetes hõbedasokkides ning haavaplaastrites.

Miks "nano" nii ohtlik on:
Aine „lõhkumine” nanosuuruseni suu rendab aine eripinda kuni miljoneid kordi, muutes aine keemiliselt reaktiivsemaks. See on ka peapõhjus, miks nanorevolutsioonile nii suurt tulevikku ennustatakse: samal ainel on nanosuuruses täiesti uued omadused, millest võib võita nii tööstus kui ka meditsiin. Teisalt võivad nanoskaalas materjalide uudsed füüsikalis-keemilised omadused suurendada nende biosaadavust ning toksilisust.
Estonian scientists studied the effects of micronized zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and copper oxide on various micro organisms: bacteria and small water organisms Daphnia magna ja Thamnocephalus platyurus. Results: no toxicity in TiO2 but ZnO was highly toxic - and this not only in micronized form - the ordinary ZnO ocurred as toxic for the test subjects. Now this is not something for us to be very concerned about cause ZnO is a well known antibiotic and in ordinary size it cannot penetrate the cells, can't get through our skin - but the micronized version is likely to cause some damage. Micronized CuO was about 60 times more toxic then it's ordinary version. Nanosilver was also found to be highly toxic and it is by now widely used in socks, medical bandages and special underwear.

Anybody looking for more can look up these research papers:

Aruoja, V., Dubourguier, H.C., Kasemets, K., Kahru, A., 2009. Toxicity of nanoparticles of CuO, ZnO and TiO2 to microalgae Pseudokirchneriella subcapitata. Sci. Total. Environ. 407, 1461-1468
Kahru, A., Dubourguier, H.-C. 2009. From ecotoxicology to nanoecotoxicology. Toxicology, 10.1016/j.tox.2009.08.016


Kunagi kohtasin ka netiavarustes artiklit selle kohta, et nanoTiO2 päikesekreemides võib olla kantserogeenne. Kopeerin selle kohta siia terve jupi artiklist:

Here's a excerpt of a post I found on the adverse effects of micronized TiO2:

Many organizations and businesses have perpetuated this assessment of the carcinogenicity of titanium dioxide (ewg.org). However, several studies and study reviews have been used to compile the safety disclaimers for the regulations on the permitted use of titanium dioxide. One such study review took place in Rome, 1969 between the World Health Organization and the Food & Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Cross species analyses were performed and reviewed for possible toxicity of titanium dioxide. The conference concluded that among the following species: rats, dogs, guinea pigs, rabbits, cats and human males, ingestion of titanium dioxide at varying diet percentages and over long periods of time did not cause absorption of this mineral. Titanium dioxide particulates were not detected in the blood, liver, kidney or urine and no adverse effects were noted from its ingestion. The U.S. Food & Drug Administration (2002) allows for its ingestion, external application including the eye area, and considers it a safe substance for public health. Other epidemiological studies showed that workers exposed to titanium dioxide exhibited no statistically significant relationship between such exposure with lung cancer and respiratory disease, although some cases of pulmonary fibrosis did occur. These studies were conducted in industrial settings where the increased exposure puts these individuals more at risk than the average person.

Titanium dioxide is listed as a safe pigment, with no known adverse effects. It is not listed as a carcinogen, mutagen, teratogen, comedogen, toxin or as a trigger for contact dermatitis in any other safety regulatory publications beside the NIOSH (Antczak, 2001; Physical & Theoretical Chemical Laboratory, Oxford University respectively). It is reasonable to conclude then, that titanium dioxide is not a cancer-causing substance and is generally safe for use in foods, drugs, paints and cosmetics. This does not end the debate, however, as controversy over the safety of one unique form of titanium dioxide still exists.

One form of mineral or mineral extract, including titanium dioxide, that we should be concerned about is ultrafine or nano particles. As technology has advanced, so has its ability to take normal sized particles of minerals and reduce them to sizes never before imagined. While many are praising this new technology, others are warning of its inherent dangers to our bodies. A study by Churg et. al. at the University of British Columbia in their paper "Induction of Fibrogenic Mediators by Fine and Ultrafine Titanium Dioxide in Rat Tracheal Explants" (1999) found that ultrafine particles of the anatase form of titanium dioxide, which are less than 0.1 microns, are pathogenic or disease causing.

Measurements of Mineral Pigment Particles

Coarse : Less than 10 microns
Fine: Less than 2.5 microns
Ultrafine (nanoparticles): Less than 0.1 microns or 100 nanometres

Particle Size and Entry into the Human Body

70 nanometres Alveolar surface of lung
50 nanometres Cells
30 nanometres Central Nervous System
Less than 20 nanometres No data yet
(etcgroup.org)

Kumazawa, et. al. in their study, "Effects of Titanium Ions and Particles on Neutrophil Function and Morphology" concluded that cytotoxicity (danger to the cell) was dependent on the particle size of titanium dioxide. The smaller the particle size, the more toxic it is. This conclusion is relevant to the consumer because of the cosmetics industry's increasing use of micronized pigments in sunscreens and colour cosmetics. Nanoparticles of titanium dioxide are used in sunscreens because they are colourless at that size and still absorb ultraviolet light. Many cosmetic companies are capitalizing on metal oxide nanoparticles. We have seen, however, that if titanium dioxide particles used to act as a sunscreen are small enough, they can penetrate the cells, leading to photocatalysis within the cell, causing DNA damage after exposure to sunlight (Powell, et. al. 1996) The fear is that this could lead to cancer in the skin. Studies with subjects who applied sunscreens with micronized titanium dioxide daily for 2-4 weeks showed that the skin can absorb microfine particles. These particles were seen in the percutaneous layers of the skin under UV light. Coarse or fine particles of titanium dioxide are safe and effective at deflecting and absorbing UV light, protecting the skin, but consumers should avoid using products with micronized mineral pigments, either in sunscreens or colour cosmetics.

As with any health issue, relevant studies must be examined closely to reach balanced conclusions about its impact on our health and well-being. Often, risk determinations are made without considering actual hazards and real-life exposures (Warheit, 2004). The Organic Make-up Co. considers fine or coarse particle sized titanium dioxide and other mineral pigments to be safe according to the studies available and information discussed in this article. Despite repeated requests for micronized pigments in our colour cosmetics, we insist on using only coarse or fine particles of mineral pigments, balancing our need to look beautiful with our more pressing need to stay healthy. With the multitude of cosmetics and chemicals available to us, it is in our best interest to become informed as consumers and make pure, natural and simple choices to protect our health and longevity.


References:
* Antczak, Cosmetics Unmasked. Harper Collins; London:2001
* Blake, et.al. "Application of the Photocatalytic Chemistry of TiO2 to Disinfection and the Killing of Cancer Cells", Separation and Purification Methods; Vol 28 (1) 1999 p.1-50
* Churg, Gilks, Dai, UBC Dept. of Pathology. Am J Physiol Lung Cell Mol Physiol. Vol 277 Issue 5 L975-L982, 1999
* Dunford, et. al. FEBS Letters 418, 87 1997
* Etcgroup.org
* Kamazawa, et.al. "Effects of Titanium Ions and Particles of Neutrophil Function and Morphology". Biomaterials 2002 Sep 23 (17): 3757-64
* Powell, et. al. GUT 38, 390 1996
* Warheit, David "Nanoparticles: Health Impacts?". Materials Today, Feb. 2004
* Witt, Stephen. Director of Technological Support, N. American Refractories Co.